Domaine Didier Dagueneau – Les Jardins de Babylone – Moelleux 2017

Since the death of Didier Dagueneau in September 2008, his son Louis-Benjamin and his daughter Charlotte (for sales) have been responsible for this exceptional estate dedicated to Sauvignon. They perpetuate the high-end artisanal spirit defined by their father. Here, the harvest in crates is done in a very short time, at optimal maturity, with a great deal of staff. The use of selected yeasts, tight settling and long aging on the lees without racking remain the basis of an absolute quest for the crystalline expression of Sauvignon – enhanced by precise aging in wood, in barrels larger than the barrels, “cigars” (320 l) or “tons” (600 l). Seven cuvées make up the range: fumé white from Pouilly, a blend of four plots; Pur Sang, a blend from the La Folie sector; Buisson Renard, a parcel from Saint-Andelain, more compact; Flint, crystalline purity of flint clays; without forgetting the extremely rare Clos du Calvaire – 20 ares planted at 14,000 vines/ha, uprooted in 2009 (2008 being the last vintage) and replanted in another direction at 10,000 vines/ha (next vintage expected in 2016) –, and the Asteroid, from a single-vine harvested vineyard that is always very ripe. Finally, the last terroir (while waiting for a red that Louis-Benjamin wants to vinify), the Sancerre de Chavignol, from the heart of the grand cru of the Côte des Monts Damnés. Remember that lovers of the purity of the house Sauvignons must discover the precious swearwords that the family produces at the Jardins de Babylone (see the South-West part). In January 2016, Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau was “Winegrower of the Year” by La Revue du vin de France.

The wines: tasted before bottling, the 2014s are exceptionally successful and will all deserve to age. Floral and energetic, the freshness of Buisson Renard is close to that of citrus zest, but without an ounce of bitterness. This straightforward and refined wine has a crystalline dimension. Great brilliance and liveliness of fruit in the crunchy substance, profiled by Thoroughbred, with tones of white pepper. Rich, airy, this harmonious and fair wine shines for a long time on the finish. The Silex cuvée equals, if not exceeds, the glorious 2012 or 2009.